Is the LWG certification sustainable?

You may have heard about the Leather Working group, which certifies leather products that are promoted to be sustainable and support environmental stewardship. How accurate are these statements? Let’s look at what certification really means.

The topic of animal-derived leather is controversial in the sustainable fashion industry. cow skin leather is the most popular. There’s a lot to learn about, whether it’s the deforestation of the Amazon, the claims made for regenerative farming, methane or the intersection between environmentalism and animal rights. The leather industry, in an effort to combat the misinformation and information that is circulating, has developed a protocol for environmental stewardship. The Leather Working Group is now in action.

What does it mean for an accessory if the Leather Working Group logo is on the bag?

LEATHER TANNING, CHEMICAL POLLution AND WORKERS’ RIGHTS

The majority of leather is -tanned either in China, Brazil or Russia. Environmental and social justice concerns, which are linked inextricably, have plagued the leather industry in all of these countries and others. As with the majority of the mainstream fashion industries, these issues are not the exception but the norm.

Tannery employees are at a higher risk for some cancers. Also, they are at risk of developing skin diseases and chronic coughing due to their job. Why? 90 % of leather contains carcinogenic chrome, along with other harmful substances such as arsenic or formaldehyde. The chemicals can leak into the waterways around tanneries and endanger wildlife as well as human health. The Pulitzer Centre’s short film The toxic price of leather explores the devastating impact this has on areas surrounding India’s tanning factories.

The Leather Working Group (LWG), in response to these dreadful problems, has placed a high priority on improving the environmental impact of tanneries. The LWG auditing includes hundreds of questions that reduce tanning’s negative effects.

A tannery that conducts no social audits can still achieve ‘gold status,’ according to the LWG. There are some very minor worker safety and health considerations, but they are minimal. A score of 50% is considered to be a pass.

has documented the use of child labour, exploitation and exploitation pay in this industry. Fashion industry must stop treating workers like commodities that can be exploited for profit.

IS LEATHER WORKING GROUP LEATHER CHROMIUM FREE, OR VEGETABLE TANNED?

Many people are concerned about the dangers of using chromium in leather tanning. They wonder if certifications such as LWG guarantee that chromium will not be used. LWG leather may contain chromium but there are other factors to consider.

Even though many people are envious of the vegetable-tanned leather, studies show that it does not have a significant difference in environmental impact compared to conventionally-tanned leather. vegetable-tanned leather, despite being marketed as a biodegradable leather, is not actually considered to be so by the industry. Each tanning method has its own ‘failures’ and / or ‘benefits.’ But, most of the leather’s environmental impact does not occur during tanning.

LEATHER ENVIRONMENTAL INFLUENCE: BEYOND TANNERY

Where does the leather that has a large environmental impact come from if it doesn’t happen in a tanning factory? What is LWG doing to combat this? This impact is felt in slaughterhouses and on farms. If you have ever heard leather was a by-product from meat and dairy production it is actually a valuable product.

The leather industry, worth over 100 billion dollars is a huge source of income for both ranches and slaughterhouses. When skins do not sell – due to animal-free alternatives being popular – there are massive financial losses. When we discuss the environmental impact of leather production, we must also consider the effects of the slaughterhouses and farms. Environmental experts, to be fair, use the ‘economical allocation’ method, which assigns emissions to skins and flesh sold as food based on their financial value.

From a purely ecological perspective, we can see that slaughterhouses are a source of many problems. The United Nations’ Food and Agricultural Organization has classified these facilities as having a very high local pollution potential. This is because waste and discharge, such as faeces, entrails, and blood, can contaminate the freshwater. In some cases this can lead to eutrophication. This is a process that has the potential to create dead zones where aquatic life struggles.

What does LWG-certified leather do to combat this issue? The answer may shock you, but it is nothing. The Leatherworking Group certification is only for tanneries.

The LWG certification ignores the most environmentally damaging part of leather production.

Farms are also ignored in the LWG certification. This is a serious concern, especially when you consider the importance of the land, water and climate footprints of leather, when considering farm impacts.

The Leather Working Group’s failure to act at the farm level has serious consequences. stand.earth’s report revealed that a number of brands who sell Leather Working Group-certified leather are likely to be funding deforestation in the Amazon Rainforest. Did you know 1 Brazilian leather bag equals 1,000 sq. m cleared land?

Deforestation, which is a worldwide problem, has led some brands to choose not to use leather from Brazil. Australia is one of the top 10 producers of skins in the world. Cattle rearing is the leading cause of deforestation. The inefficient use of land that is kept clear and void of native vegetation, is a global problem, often fueled by the demand for products.

Even though we need to transition away from conventional synthetic leather, cow skin leather products have a carbon equivalent footprint that is a data-uw-rmext-link=”” href=”https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/articles/carbon cost of leather goods”>nearly 7 times more harmful/a>. Cow skin leather has a carbon footprint that is nearly seven times worse than conventional synthetic leather, a material which we must stop using. The certification is not sustainable until LWG takes action on climate change and deforestation.

The Leather Working Group also claims to certify ‘ethical leather’. Is this true?

Animals would be a necessity if the phrase ‘ethical leather ‘, used by the LWG, were to ever become a real possibility. The Leather Working Group does not consider the ethical treatment of workers or their rights. Does it at least consider the welfare of animals?

Sadly, the LWG has failed to deliver on its promises in this area. The group does not take animal welfare into consideration.

Leather industry cattle are often painfully mutilated. Their sensitive horns are cut off and their skin is branded with scorching hot metal. Some cattle are kept in feedlots and are not allowed to follow their instincts. Others are slaughtered at a young age, often in horrific ways.

Where can we find genuine, ethical and sustainable leather?

Plant-based leather is the most ethical, sustainable, and safest way to obtain leather. The materials created to replace tanned cow skin are becoming more eco-friendly and cost-conscious.

Here are some leather alternatives that we like and are currently available:

Apple leather

This material is a mixture of bio-based and synthetic materials. This material, like the cactus and mango alternatives, has a smaller carbon footprint and less water. It also doesn’t have as many ethical dilemmas. Apple Leather alternatives are increasingly available. They’re made from the cores, seeds, and stalks of apple trees that were discarded by the juice industry.

Pinatex

The material is much less harmful to the environment compared to animal leather or conventional synthetic alternatives. The material is 95% biodegradable and made from pineapple leaves that are then coated with a bio-resin. Pinatex is a leather-like material with a unique texture. It ages beautifully and softens over time.

Recycled vegan leather

Did you know that recycled vegan leather is also available? These materials are usually bound together with synthetic elements.

While virgin synthetics may not be the answer, using the existing materials is a worthwhile investment and makes fashion more circular.

Cork

Cork is an option that is often overlooked. It’s a water-resistant, durable, and biodegradable alternative to leather. Cork is a durable material that can be used for belts, shoes and backpacks. The bark of the cork tree is removed, allowing it to sequester even more carbon.

Mirum

The new material, which is free of plastic, is popping up everywhere. Mirum, which is certified as having 100% bio-content by the USDA’s bio-preferred programme, has a variety of uses and can be made using slightly different ingredients.

A black Mirum bag, for example, can be made using a mixture of Forest Stewardship Certified Natural Rubber, natural colourants such as charcoal, natural fillers such as clays, and plant-based oils or waxes.